On a list of London’s best restaurants, you would expect to see the usual Michelin-starred suspects such as The Ledbury, Ikoyi and The Ritz. But high among these culinary heavyweights sits a humble salonu tucked away in the depths of north London.
Neco Tantuni, a small Turkish eatery specialising in the foodie delights of Mersin, a city located on the southern coast of Turkey, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in London by Vittles, the trendy food magazine that has become a bible for those looking for the best (and more off-the-radar) grub in the capital.
“I’m totally shocked,” says Eren Kaya, whose parents hard graft has resulted in their restaurant, situated in a far-flung corner of Enfield, being placed near the top of the 99-strong list.
The small shop, which was a greasy spoon cafe before being transformed into the hugely popular food hotspot, hasn’t fully shed the character of its former self. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display where tantuni is prepared in front of customers, the layout has stayed largely the same. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says Kaya.
But, at the end of the day, it’s all about the food and Neco Tantuni more than delivers on that front. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni (£5 each), is a simple delight. The meat (lamb or chicken) is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture before being tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, the homemade lavaş (a thin, flexible bread) are slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash or parsley are placed in the lavaş which accompany the flavourful meat. It’s wrapped tightly and usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumak, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil to bring it together.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni (£12), where the meat-filled lavaş are sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. Jonathan Nunn, the editor of Vittles, called the dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”. If there’s room for desert, then Neco Tantuni’s künefe (£8) goes down a treat. It’s doused in less syrup than you might find in other places, which gives it a richer, nuttier and less sickly taste.
Neco Tantuni has ranked above Core and The Ledbury, both of which have been handed three illustrious Michelin stars. It finds itself near the top of the list just behind 40 Maltby Street , which is headed up by the Michelin starred-chef Stephen Williams, The Ritz, and the modern French restaurant Planque.
While two people could easily leave Neco Tantuni stuffed for less than £25, a five-course taster menu at The Ritz starts at £199 and small plates at Planque can creep past £30 each.
It is also one of the five Turkish restaurants on the list and among the 30 situated outside zones 1 and 2. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumed that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that. I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm,” says Kaya.
Nunn agrees, saying if he were mayor, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to Neco Tantuni as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.
Unlike most chefs running kitchens featured in the list’s top ten, Neco Tantuni’s head chef, Hafîze Kaya, didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says Eren.
Many restaurants take years to find their footing but Neco Tantuni first opened its doors seven years ago, its success owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks.
“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade, she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support here. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her what she is now, a brilliant person,” he says.
Neco Tantuni’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond the restaurant’s walls. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says Kaya.
